Buenos Dias, Buenos Aires!
The last time I was pregnant, I visited Buenos Aires and while, it was an immense bummer to vacation in a country known for its wine while abstaining, I still had a really, fun time. So, it’s not surprising that the Argentinian culture—as a whole—is extroverted Fun Structure (ESTP) according to Brent Masssey’s book “Where in the World Do I Belong.” Friendly, informal but a little colder than other Latin American cultures. The “T” or thinking aspect is the likely culprit for the latter.
I found Argentinians to be quite friendly but then again I’m comparing them to the only other Spanish speaking big city residents I’ve experience, Madrillenos and if you read my Spain tips last week, you know how I feel about Madrillenos. But, I also was travelling with my Spanish speaking extroverted Fun Freedom (ENFP) sister-in-law, Becca, who makes everything fun and took great care of her charges. She always sat in front with the taxi drivers to make sure they knew we were not idiot gringos. My husband and I were bereft when she and my brother left a day or two before us. In fact, he rented a hotel room at the Hilton because he didn’t think we could truly hack it on our own!
Where to Stay
Alvear Palace: My dad, an introverted Smart Structure (INTJ) stayed here on his one and only trip to BA. According to him, “It was good. Not only was there a concierge on each floor but they also had a valet [Kelly: According to the Alvear website they’re called Personal Butlers] who offered to unpack and hang my clothes. Never happened at a Four Seasons, Ritz or anywhere else.” The butler offers you a complimentary pressing of 2 garments per person on arrival. Umm, yes, please! I went to the Alvear for tea—a tour book recommendation—but was turned away because my hick, New Jersey, husband was wearing his hideous New Balance sneakers. Anyway, it’s old school European in a way that most old school European hotels are no longer.
VRBO: When I went to Buenos Aires, we rented an apartment. I can’t remember the service we used but I’ve used Vacation Rental By Owner (VRBO) before in Paris and been pleased. It’s always a price performer AND it forces you to really get to know a city when you have to go out and forage for breakfast instead of ordering room service or eating in your hotel. If memory serves, Palermo is the more upscale neighborhood. We stayed in San Telmo, which had a ton of old world character and a really neat square with restaurants.
The Hilton we moved into was fine but it could’ve been in Peoria for all intensive purposes. Skip this type of hotel.
To Do
Tango Lessons or a Tango show are a must. Best to do it in San Telmo—the “birthplace” of Tango. Becca insisted we go to a dance hall and take Tango lessons. I thought this was a neat idea until they split us up so that we all had to take dance lessons from strangers. But, essentially you can go to one of the many Milongas (dance halls) in the area and get a lesson for beginners as well as watch the amateur professionals go for it. It’s mesmerizing. My husband and I also did a Tango show where they pick people from the audience. I was thankfully spared having to perform but my husband got picked and it was hilarious.
Casa Felix: Becca found this gem for us via a NY Times article on it. We thought it was a cool, local restaurant where they served locally sourced food. Boy were we in for a surprise. It is a restaurant but more like going to a friend’s house for a dinner party. We had an aperitif in their back garden with all of the other patrons that evening and then dined in their courtyard at our own four top. It was delicious and while completely vegetarian, even my meat obsessed husband enjoyed it. Plus, you’ll have plenty of chances to eat beef everywhere in BA, you’ll welcome the change. What’s also neat about Casa Felix is that they go on world cooking tours for a few months every year where they essentially host dinner parties in people’s homes all over the world.
It opens it’s doors every Thursday through Saturday night for a five course pescatarian tasting menu. For reservations: info@colectivofelix.com. For more information about how to book a dinner in your home please just write us an email at cookingtour@colectivofelix.com
Random: Here’s something nobody probably ever does because they don’t stay in BA for 10 days and run out of things to do like we did. We walked over to the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery—again desperate to find the water’s edge. And it was like how airports in the US pre-9/11 used to be where you could just stand there and watch planes take off and land just feet away from you. No security except fence.
Boat to Uruguay: We did not do this when in town because it was always sold out. When I did a little research for this PixieTip, I discovered that others experience the same thing. So, head over to Buquebus terminal a couple of days ahead of time to buy tickets to Colonia, Uruguay or you too will never make it to Uruguay!
Pool at the Panamericano: We went to BA in January so on some really hot days we were desperate for some water. In fact, it was crazy how tough it was to even find the water’s edge in BA. It might be on the mouth of a river but unlike NYC, the river is not an integral part of daily living. Anyway, there is a lovely rooftop pool at the Panamericano if you’re ver in BA in the winter and desperate for a splash.